Mastering your short game around the greens honestly makes the difference between walking away with a personal best or just shaking your head in frustration.
Two shots dominate this part of golf: the pitch shot and the chip shot. They might look similar, sure, but they’re not interchangeable, each has its own job and technique.
Here’s the gist: chip shots fly low, use little wrist, and roll most of the way; pitch shots fly high, use more wrist, and stop fast. When to use each? That depends on obstacles, your ball’s lie, and how much green you’ve got to work with.
If you’ve ever stood 20 yards from the pin, torn between bumping it or tossing it high, you know the agony of picking wrong, what should be an easy up-and-down can unravel fast.
Let’s dig into what sets these shots apart and how to pick the right one when it counts.
Key Takeaways
- Chip shots: low flight, lots of roll, best for clean lies and no obstacles
- Pitch shots: high flight, minimal roll, perfect for clearing hazards or stopping fast on the green
- Your choice comes down to lie, obstacles, and how much green you’ve got
Defining Pitch Shots and Chip Shots
Both chip and pitch shots are short game staples, but they solve different problems. Chips fly low and roll, pitches fly high and stop quick. Simple, right? But the devil’s in the details.
What Is a Chip Shot?
Chipping is the move when you’re close to the green and have plenty of room to let the ball run. It’s kind of like putting with a wedge.
Chip shot basics:
- Low flight
- Mostly roll, not much carry
- Little wrist action
- Putting-like stroke
You’ll usually grab a 7-iron to pitching wedge for chips. The motion? Shoulders do the work, wrists stay quiet, and you just brush the turf.
The ball pops up, skips, and then rolls out like a long putt. Chips are predictable—once you get the feel, they’re easier to control than pitches.
Understanding Pitch Shots
Pitch shots are what you reach for when you need height and a soft landing. You’re flying it over something, or you need it to stop fast.
Pitch shot essentials:
- High flight
- Soft landing
- Active wrist hinge
- Mini version of a full swing
For pitches, you’ll want a sand wedge or lob wedge—something with more loft. The technique uses wrist hinge, body turn, and a full follow-through, just scaled down.
With pitches, you accelerate through the ball and finish high. That’s how you get the height to clear bunkers or rough and land it soft.
Main Differences Between Pitch Shots and Chip Shots
The biggest differences? Ball flight and what happens after it lands. Pitch shots go high with spin and stop quickly. Chips stay low and roll a lot.
Trajectory and Spin
Pitch shots climb high, thanks to lofted clubs like a 54- or 60-degree wedge. That loft creates backspin, which helps the ball land soft and not run away.
Chip shots, on the other hand, fly low—think 7-iron or 8-iron. Less loft, less spin, more roll. The ball just doesn’t get up in the air much.
Roll and Distance
Pitch shots don’t roll out much after landing—maybe 10-20% of the total distance. That’s perfect when you need to drop it close and have it stop.
Chips are a different animal. Once they land, they roll 60-80% of the shot’s total distance. So you’ve got to plan for both the carry and the roll. The putting-style motion keeps things consistent, but you still have to judge how far it’ll run.
Difficulty and Shot Purpose
Pitch shots are trickier. You need good wrist hinge, weight shift, and a clean strike. More moving parts means more can go wrong, but sometimes you have no choice—like when you’ve got to clear a bunker or stop the ball on a fast green.
Chips are more reliable. The stroke is simple, wrists stay quiet, and you can repeat it under pressure. If you can chip, do it. Save the pitch for when you have to go high.
Setup and Technique for Both Shots
Setup is everything. The way you stand, where you put the ball, how you hold the club—these little details change everything about how the shot comes off.
Stance and Ball Position
Chipping? Feet almost together. That narrow stance gives you control for the short motion.
Pitching? Go wider—about shoulder-width. You need the base for a bigger swing.
Ball position:
- Chip: Ball goes back in your stance, near your back foot
- Pitch: Ball moves to the middle or just forward of center
Weight-wise, chips favor the front foot (about 60-70%), pitches are more balanced, 50-50.
Narrow for chips keeps you steady for the short stroke. Wider for pitches lets you swing bigger and stay in balance.
Clubface and Shaft Lean
Shaft lean is a big deal here. For chips, you want your hands well ahead of the ball—shaft leaning toward the target. That gets you a descending hit and a low flight.
For pitches, hands stay more neutral, maybe just a touch ahead. That lets the club’s loft do its thing.
Key points:
- Chip: Obvious forward shaft lean
- Pitch: Neutral or just slight lean
Clubface for chips stays square or even a little closed. For pitches, sometimes you’ll open it up to get more height.
More lean with chips takes loft off, sending it low. Less lean with pitches lets it fly high.
Wrist Hinge Differences
Wrist action is the big separator. Chips barely use the wrists—keep them quiet the whole way.
Think of chipping as a putting stroke with a wedge. Wrists stay locked, and you just rock the shoulders. That’s how you keep it consistent.
Pitch shots need wrist hinge. You hinge on the way back, then let the wrists release through impact. That’s what gives you the height and distance.
Wrist action:
- Chip: Hardly any hinge, wrists firm
- Pitch: Hinge back, release through
If you get too wristy on chips, you’ll hit it fat or thin. Not enough wrist in pitches, and you’ll come up short or can’t stop it.
Choosing Between a Pitch Shot and a Chip Shot
So, how do you decide? It’s all about what’s on the ground, what’s between you and the hole, and, honestly, what the weather’s doing.
Reading the Lie and Green
The lie tells you a lot. Sitting on tight, clean grass near the green? That’s chip city.
Tight lies make it easy to chip cleanly. The ball pops up, clears the fringe, and rolls true.
Thick or fluffy rough is a different story. Now you need a pitch. That steep angle and loft help you get the ball up and out.
Green firmness matters too. Fast, hard greens reward the roll of a chip. Land it short and let it chase.
Soft greens? You’ve got options. Pitch shots will stick, chips might not roll as far as you think. Adjust your target.
Slopes change things. Uphill greens? Go with a pitch, you need the carry. Downhill? Chips let gravity do the work.
Factoring in Obstacles and Elevation
Obstacles are deal-breakers for chips. If there’s a bunker, water, or thick rough in front, you’ve got to pitch it.
Elevation matters too. Elevated greens need a pitch shot—you just won’t get there with a chip.
Downhill to the green? Chips work well, and the lower flight actually helps.
Pin placement changes things up. Tucked pins behind hazards or near the edge? Soft pitch. Pins with plenty of green in front? Chip and let it run.
| Situation | Best Choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Bunker in front | Pitch | Must clear obstacle |
| Elevated green | Pitch | Need carry distance |
| Downhill lie | Chip | Gravity assists roll |
| Pin tucked tight | Pitch | Requires soft landing |
Adapting to Wind and Turf Conditions
Wind can turn your plan upside down. If you’re playing into the wind, chip shots are your friend—they stay low and aren’t as affected.
Headwinds kill high pitch shots and make distance tough to judge. Chips cut through better.
Tailwinds do the opposite. Pitches fly farther, chips roll more.
Crosswinds mess with pitches more since they’re in the air longer. Chips are less exposed.
Turf changes, too. Wet ground makes chips risky—you can slide under the ball. Pitches work better from soggy lies.
Dry, firm turf is perfect for chipping. The ball sits up, and you can judge the roll.
Morning dew? It’ll slow down your chips, but pitches won’t care as much since they’re mostly airborne.
Club Selection for Chipping and Pitching
The club you pick really matters. Lower loft for chips, higher loft for pitches—it’s not rocket science, but it’s easy to overthink.
Selecting the Right Loft
For chips, grab a club with less loft—7-iron or 8-iron works great. Those usually have about 32-37 degrees of loft.
Need a touch more height, but still want roll? Try a 9-iron or pitching wedge (44-48 degrees). Pitching wedge is that sweet spot for longer chips.
Pitches call for more loft. Sand wedge (54-56 degrees) is the workhorse. For max height and stopping power, reach for the lob wedge (58-60 degrees).
Gap wedge (50-52 degrees) fills in nicely between pitching and sand wedge—don’t overlook it.
When to Use Wedges and Irons
Use irons (7-9) when:
- The pin sits far from the green edge
- No bunkers or hazards block our path
- We’ve got a clean lie on short grass
- The green slopes away from us
Use wedges when:
- We need to clear bunkers or rough
- The pin’s tucked close to the green edge
- We’re in thick rough or sand
- The green slopes toward us and we want some spin
Chip shots with irons are pretty forgiving. Even if we don’t catch them perfectly, we usually get a serviceable result. Wedges, on the other hand, ask for more precision but reward us with sharper control over trajectory and spin.
Common Mistakes and Troubleshooting
Most pitch and chip shot mishaps come down to setup errors, bad distance judgment, or picking the wrong club. These three issues probably cause more headaches than any fancy swing flaw.
Setup Errors
Ball position trips up a lot of us. For chip shots, we should play the ball back in our stance—just inside the back foot works. That helps us strike down and get the ball rolling, almost like a long putt.
Pitch shots need the ball closer to center. Too far back, and we’ll blade it across the green. Too far forward, and we risk chunking it short.
Weight matters too. When chipping, lean into your front foot—about 60-70% of your weight there feels right. This encourages the downward blow we’re after.
Pitching? Go for more even weight at address. Clubface angle matters as well—keep it square or just a touch open to avoid those thin, screaming shots.
Distance and Spin Misjudgments
It’s easy to guess wrong about how much chip shots roll compared to how soft pitch shots land. Chips usually fly a third of the way and roll the rest. Pitch shots stop faster.
Spin control gets tricky if we ignore green conditions. Soft greens grab the ball, firm ones let it release. Wet grass? Expect less spin than on a dry day.
Trying to force spin with our hands usually backfires. Let the clubface and loft handle it. Clean, slightly open contact does the job for pitch shots.
Distance control gets better when we practice chip shots with a putting tempo and develop repeatable backswing lengths for pitches.
Wrong Club Choices
Reaching for the sand wedge every time? It’s like hitting driver on every hole—sometimes it works, but not always. Lower-lofted clubs like a 7-iron or 8-iron often make chipping simpler when there’s green to work with.
Pick your club based on the shot you need. If there’s nothing in the way, keep it low and chip. Only pitch when you need to carry something or stop the ball quick.
Grabbing the highest-lofted wedge can actually make distance control harder, thanks to the steep angle and extra spin.
And honestly, if you can putt it, do that. If not, chip it. Pitch only when you have no other option.
Frequently Asked Questions
Golfers always have questions about the short game. Here are some of the most common ones about technique, club choice, and making decisions around the green.
What's the real difference between a chip shot and a pitch shot in golf?
It mostly comes down to height and style. Chip shots stay low and roll most of the way, using a putting-like stroke with steady wrists.
Pitch shots fly higher, land softer, and stop quicker. We use more wrist hinge—think of it as a smaller, softer version of the full swing.
Clubs matter too. Chips usually call for a 7-iron, 8-iron, or even a hybrid. Pitches need wedges, like a 54-degree or 60-degree.
How do you choose between pitching or chipping when you're close to the green?
The rule of thumb: chip if you can, pitch if you must. If there’s nothing between you and the flag, chipping is usually easier to control.
Pitching comes in when you have to clear something—bunkers, rough, a mound, whatever. The lie matters too. Thick grass wants a wedge. Clean fairway? Go with a chip.
Is there a magic distance to help decide whether to chip or pitch, or is it all 'feel'?
It’s not really about distance. It’s about what’s between you and the hole. You might chip from 50 yards if the coast is clear, or pitch from just 10 yards if trouble’s in front.
Ask yourself: do I need to carry something? If not, chip it. If yes, pitch it.
Green speed and firmness matter too. Fast, sloping greens often favor chips. Soft greens with tight pins might need a delicate pitch.
For a high handicapper, do you have any simple tips to improve chipping and pitching?
Start with chipping—it’s more forgiving. Use your putting grip and stance, then just make a smooth putting stroke with a 7- or 8-iron.
Keep your wrists quiet on chips. Think “putting with a lofted club.” It’s a game-changer.
For pitching, focus on following through high. Most folks stop short and chunk it. Turn through the shot and keep the speed up.
Try a 2:1 ratio—your follow-through should be twice as long as your backswing. That helps prevent slowing down and leads to better contact.
In what scenario should I opt for a chip-and-run over a standard pitch shot?
Go for chip-and-run when you’ve got a lot of green to work with. Flat, open greens are perfect for letting the ball roll out.
Windy? Keep it low with a chip-and-run. High pitch shots just get tossed around.
Fast, hard greens also call for chips. Pitch shots tend to bounce and skip too far on firm turf, while chips offer better distance control.
If the pin’s at the back, let the ball run. Front pins with little green demand the touch of a pitch.
What makes a chipper different from a pitching wedge, and when should each be used?
A chipper kind of blurs the line between a wedge and a putter. It’s got the loft you’d expect from a wedge, but the length and lie angle feel more like your putter—so you can use a putting stroke for those tricky little chip shots.
Most chippers sit at around 35-37 degrees of loft, which is pretty much what you’d see on an 8-iron. They’re aimed at those bump-and-run shots right around the green—nothing fancy, just a low runner.
Pitching wedges, on the other hand, look and play more like a classic iron. The lie angle’s steeper, and the club’s built for full swings or those half-swing shots where you really get your wrists and body moving.
If you just want something reliable for basic chips, grab the chipper. Need more options, maybe a longer approach or a higher chip? That’s when you’ll want the pitching wedge.