Few things on the course sting quite like seeing your ball disappear into a thick patch of rough, just a short pitch from the green.
What should be a routine up-and-down suddenly feels like a minefield, chunked shots, balls rocketing over the green, you name it.
The secret to chipping out of heavy grass? You need a steep, descending strike with an open clubface, and you have to swing with purpose.
Forget those delicate little chips you might use from the fairway. In the rough, you’ve got to commit and power through, but still find a way to land the ball softly.
We've all stood over a ball lost in gnarly greenside rough, feeling the pressure. But honestly, this shot isn’t about luck or just hacking at it.
If you tweak your technique and understand how thick grass messes with your ball flight, you can turn these ugly lies into workable recovery shots.
Key Takeaways
- Go steep and down with an open clubface to slice through the grass and get a softer flight
- Swing with intent, almost like a bunker shot—let the club release through the thick stuff
- Grab a higher-lofted wedge and adjust your stance to ensure you catch the ball before the grass does
Understanding the Challenges of Chipping from Rough
Chipping from thick grass is a totally different animal. The grass changes how your club moves, how the ball reacts, and what kind of shot you’re about to hit.
Why Thick Grass Affects Your Golf Ball
Thick rough acts like a cushion, stealing energy from your club at impact. It’s a weird feeling—sometimes the ball just takes off, “hot,” with no spin because the grass gets wedged between the face and the ball.
What you’ll notice:
- Less backspin means the ball rolls out more
- Contact gets dicey, so shots can shoot off in odd directions
- Grass messes with your launch angle
When the ball’s really buried, you get those “flyers” that go way farther than you’d expect, often with almost no control.
Differences Between Rough and Fairway Chipping
From the fairway, you catch the ball first, then the turf—nice and predictable. In the rough, you’re forced to deal with grass the whole way, and the clubface can twist as the grass wraps around it.
| Fairway Conditions | Rough Conditions |
|---|---|
| Clean ball-first contact | Grass interference at impact |
| Predictable spin rates | Reduced or eliminated backspin |
| Consistent distance control | Unpredictable carry distances |
| Multiple club options | Limited to higher-lofted clubs |
Fairway lies let you use anything from a 7-iron up. In thick grass, you pretty much need a wedge with enough loft to get the ball up and out.
Key Obstacles: Long Grass, Lie, and Resistance
Long grass causes a few headaches. It wraps around the clubhead, twists the face, and can kill your loft. The deeper the ball sits, the steeper you’ll need to swing.
Things that make it tougher:
- Grass density—thicker means you have to swing harder
- Grass length—long blades grab the clubface
- Wetness—moisture makes grass heavier and stickier
The grass slows down the clubhead, so you end up swinging harder just to keep speed up, but that can backfire and lead to mishits.
Ball position in the rough is all over the place—sometimes it sits up, sometimes it’s buried. You’ve got to adjust your approach every time.
Assessing the Lie: Reading Your Shot from Heavy Rough
How the ball sits in the rough tells you almost everything you need to know. Grass depth, thickness, and what’s behind the ball all matter for picking the right club and swing.
Lie Depth and Position
First, see how deep the ball’s buried. If it’s sitting up, you’ve got options—maybe even a soft shot. But if only the top half is showing, you’ll need to get steeper and more aggressive.
Fluffy lies let the club slide under the ball—almost like it’s on a pillow.
Nestled lies show just the top of the ball, surrounded by grass. Tricky for clean contact.
Buried lies—well, you can barely see the ball. These need max loft and a lot of commitment.
Check for roots or thick stems too. They’ll mess with your swing and might force you to club up.
Grass Thickness and Its Impact
Grass type and density really change how the club moves. Thick, grabby rough slows the club and can twist it closed.
Wet rough is even nastier. Moisture makes grass stick to the hosel, closing the face and pulling shots left. You’ll need more clubhead speed to fight through.
Grain direction matters more than you’d think. Grass growing toward the target is easier to get through than grass growing back at you.
Dry: Lighter, easier to cut
Wet: Sticky, wraps around the club
Dense: Needs more loft and a steeper swing
Sparse: You might get away with a lower-lofted club
Different grass types react differently. Bermuda is wiry and grabs, fescue is a bit more forgiving.
Checking the Area Behind the Ball
Look at the grass right behind your ball. That’s what your club will hit first.
If there’s a thick clump, plan on hitting grass before the ball—grab a sand or lob wedge with bounce.
If it’s thin, you can try a pitching wedge, especially if you want the ball to run.
Watch out for matted-down grass—it can make the club bounce or skip, causing thin or fat shots.
Debris or twigs? They hide in thick rough and can wreck a swing.
And don’t forget the direction of grass growth—it’ll tell you if the club will dig or glide at impact.
Selecting the Right Club for Chipping from Heavy Grass
Club choice is huge. Grass density, lie, and pin location all play a part—each one might push you toward a different wedge or slightly different technique.
When to Use a Sand Wedge
The sand wedge is the workhorse for moderate to thick rough. Its 54-56° loft pops the ball up, and the wide sole helps you glide through the grass instead of digging.
Ball position: Play it just forward of center. That helps you get steep and cut through the grass.
The bounce keeps the club from getting stuck. In really dense grass, you’ll be glad for that forgiveness.
If you need medium height with some spin and have decent green to work with, sand wedge is a solid bet.
Choosing Between Lob Wedge and Pitching Wedge
Lob wedge (58-64°) is for those ugly, thick lies when you need to go high and land soft. Use it when:
- The pin’s tucked close
- You’ve got to clear a bunker or obstacle
- The ball’s buried deep
Pitching wedge is for lighter rough or when the ball sits up and you’ve got plenty of green. Its lower loft (44-48°) gives you a lower, rolling shot.
If you want to reduce the risk of chunking, and the lie isn’t too bad, pitching wedge can work.
Club Selection Tips for Different Grass Types
Bermuda: This stuff grabs your clubface. You’ll need extra loft—sand or lob wedge—and a firm grip.
Fescue: Fine but dense. Lob wedge with a sharp leading edge will help you cut through.
| Grass Type | Recommended Club | Key Consideration |
|---|---|---|
| Bermuda | Sand/Lob Wedge | Firm grip, steep swing |
| Fescue | Lob Wedge | Sharp leading edge needed |
| Ryegrass | Sand Wedge | Moderate bounce works well |
Wet: When it’s damp, the grass doesn’t grab the ball quite as much, so you can get away with less loft—maybe drop down a club.
Rule of thumb: thicker grass, more loft; then adjust for how much green you have and where the pin’s cut.
Perfecting Your Setup: Stance, Grip, and Ball Position
Your setup is everything. If you want to make crisp contact and get out of the rough, you need a stable stance and just the right grip.
Stance Adjustments for Stability
Go wider than your usual chipping stance—set your feet about a club-width apart for stability.
Lean about 70% of your weight onto your front foot. That helps you strike down and avoid getting snagged by the grass.
Keep your feet a bit closer together than you would for a full swing. It gives you more control for the shorter motion.
Bend your knees a bit—rough is rarely flat, and you’ll need balance.
Stand a touch closer to the ball than you would from the fairway. Thick grass can grab the club, so you want to be able to swing down and through.
Proper Grip Pressure in Thick Grass
Grip a little firmer than normal—call it a 6 out of 10. That’ll help stop the club from twisting in the thick stuff.
Choke down about an inch for more control and better contact.
Hands should be a bit ahead of the ball at address. That helps you get the descending strike you need.
Try to keep your grip steady through the swing. The grass will try to twist the clubface, so don’t let it.
But don’t squeeze the life out of it. Too much tension makes for a stiff, jerky swing that’s hard to control.
Optimal Ball Position for a Clean Strike
Set the ball back in your stance, about one ball-width behind center. That encourages a steeper attack.
Line the ball up with your back heel or just a hair forward. You want to hit down on it before you catch any grass.
Don’t play the ball forward in your stance from the rough—unless you want to thin it.
If the ball’s super buried, you might need to move it even further back.
Make sure your sternum is over or just ahead of the ball. That, along with the ball position, helps you get the descending blow you need.
Executing the Chipping Technique from Heavy Rough
It all comes down to a steep attack, an aggressive but controlled swing, and trusting the grass to help deaden the ball. These elements work together to pop the ball out clean, even from the nastiest lies.
Steepen Your Backswing for Maximum Effect
You want a steep backswing that lets the club cut through the grass, not get stuck in it. Bring your hands ahead of the ball and tilt the shaft forward. That sets up the sharp angle you’ll need at impact.
Instead of swinging around your body, try lifting the club more vertically—almost like you’re picking it straight up. This helps you get that steeper path to slice through the rough.
Keep your wrists firm here. If they get too loose, you’ll end up with a shallow swing that just snags in the grass.
Shift a bit more weight onto your front foot and leave it there throughout. That helps you keep the steep angle and keeps you from hanging back and scooping, which hardly ever works in thick stuff.
Downswing and Impact Tips
You need speed, but not wild speed. It’s more about controlled aggression. You want enough force to get through the grass, but still have control over the clubface.
Accelerate through the ball with some conviction—tentative swings just get stuck and leave you short.
Keep the clubface a little open as you swing down. This lets the club slide under the ball and helps launch it higher so it lands soft.
Let your hands release naturally, like you’re hitting a bunker shot. The right hand should roll over the left right after impact.
Don’t try to help the ball up. Just hit down and through. The wedge’s loft will take care of the height.
Follow-Through: Letting Thick Grass Do Its Thing
The rough is going to slow your club down after impact—actually, that’s a good thing. It helps the ball land soft. You don’t have to force a stopping action.
Let your follow-through be shorter than usual. The grass is going to decelerate your swing anyway, so don’t fight it.
Keep your chest turning toward the target, even as the club slows down. That’s what helps you get solid contact and keep the ball going where you want.
Your finish will feel cut off compared to normal chips. If it feels awkward, that’s fine. It’s just part of chipping from heavy lies.
Trust the open face and the grass to pop the ball out high and soft. You want it to land with as little roll as possible.
Practice Drills and Common Mistakes to Avoid
Drills make a difference. If you want to get reliable from the rough, you’ve got to practice the right way. The biggest mistakes? Messing up the contact sequence, swinging with the wrong mechanics, and losing your rhythm.
Spot and Distance Control Drills
Try the Target Circle Drill. Toss towels or alignment sticks in circles at 10, 15, and 20 yards. Start with the closest one. Hit 10 balls with your sand wedge, aiming for each to land inside the circle.
Keep track of your success at each distance. Tour pros get up and down from inside 20 yards about 60% of the time. Most of us are more like 20-30%, but hey, that’s why we practice.
The Distance Ladder is another good one. Set targets at 8, 12, and 18 yards. Use the same club for all. Change only your backswing length to control distance. This drill really teaches you how swing size affects ball flight from thick lies.
Mistakes Like Hitting the Grass First
Fat contact kills more chips than anything else. If you hit the grass before the ball, the club slows down and the shot comes up short.
Ball position is usually the culprit. Keep it centered, not forward like you would with a driver. That way, the club gets to the ball before it digs into the turf.
Lean 60-70% of your weight onto your front foot and keep it there. That helps you hit the ball first.
Check your divot after practice. You want a little divot starting just after the ball—not before.
At address, set your hands a bit ahead of the ball. That little forward press helps you keep the downward strike you need.
Managing Backswing Length and Speed
Shorter backswings work best from thick stuff. Most golfers take it too far back and then slow down at impact, which just makes things worse.
Waist-high is plenty for most rough chips. That gives you enough oomph to get through the grass but keeps things under control.
Speed matters more than how big your swing is. Try to keep the same tempo on every shot, just change your backswing length for distance.
Count “one-two” as you swing. “One” is the backswing, “two” is impact. This little rhythm check helps you avoid jerky, rushed swings.
Grip the club firmly enough to control it, but don’t squeeze the life out of it. Too much tension in your hands leads to stiff, fast swings that feel awful around the greens.
Frequently Asked Questions
Chipping from thick rough brings up a lot of questions—club choice, swing tweaks, shot planning. Here are a few answers that might help you escape the grass with a bit more confidence.
What's the secret behind mastering short chips when you're stuck in the thick stuff?
It’s all about a steep angle of attack that cuts through the grass. Put the ball 2-3 inches back in your stance, lean 70% of your weight forward.
Open the clubface a bit—rough wants to close it at impact. Hold the club more firmly than usual to keep control.
Hinge your wrists early on the backswing. It’s more of a chop than a sweep, honestly.
Any pro tips for chipping out of the rough without losing your cool... and maybe a few strokes?
Always test the lie first. Place your club a few inches behind the ball and feel the grass. Take a couple practice swings nearby to see what you’re dealing with.
Expect the ball to roll more than usual. Pick a landing spot closer to you to account for the extra rollout.
Honestly, sometimes just getting it out and onto the green is a win. Don’t beat yourself up if it’s not perfect.
Hey, when you're pitching from the rough, is it a flop shot fiesta or more of a bump-and-run bash?
From thick rough, you’re usually better off with a higher-lofted shot. The grass makes low runners unpredictable.
Sand wedge or something with even more loft is usually the call. Lower-lofted clubs just get tangled and spit out weird results.
If the ball’s sitting up, maybe you could try a bump-and-run with an 8 or 9 iron—if there’s plenty of green to work with.
Is there a go-to wedge for liberating your ball from long grass, or is it all about feeling groovy with your groove depth?
The sand wedge is the workhorse for thick rough. The weight and loft help dig through the grass and get the ball up.
Groove depth isn’t as important as keeping the grooves clean. Grass and dirt in there kill your spin and control.
Wipe your grooves between every shot. Towel and tee—simple, but it works.
How do you adjust your chipping swing when dealing with a lie that's less lawn and more jungle expedition?
You need to make the swing steeper—early wrist hinge on the backswing. Get the club working up and away from you, not around.
On the downswing, go for a chopping action. Drive the clubhead down into the grass behind the ball and let it bottom out.
Don’t expect a big follow-through—the grass is going to stop the club. If you try to force it, you’ll just make worse contact.
Could we settle the debate once and for all: when chipping from the heavy rough, is the 56-degree the hero or does the 60-degree deserve the spotlight?
Most of the time, I’ll grab the 56-degree sand wedge. It just feels more versatile, and that slightly sharper leading edge seems to slice through the grass with less fuss than the 60. You still get plenty of loft, but it’s not as finicky.
The 60-degree? I’ll admit, I pull it out when there’s barely any green to work with and I need the ball to get up—fast. But honestly, the extra bounce on a lot of 60s can turn into a problem if the ground under the rough is hard. You might see it bounce right off, which is never fun.
The 56-degree just gives you a bit more wiggle room. Miss a little thin or heavy? You’ll probably still get away with it, compared to the 60, which feels a bit unforgiving unless you nail it.